Mussoorie -the place it was

I had last gone to Mussoorie 11 years ago, same time, mid-June. When I came back to Delhi, I uploaded the pictures on the more accomplished Orkut, since Facebook  at that time was still a teenager, trying to fit in, searching for its identity.

I remember that in one of the pictures, only my hand was visible, raised in the air, which was clicked on the Lal-Tibba track situated at nearly 7500 feets among the Landour cantt, as the cloud, full of mist, rushed in to engulf everything under their weightless, cold cover. I had to wear a light woolen jacket, such was the chill in the air.

The rows of trees, surrounding Lal Tibba trek, the legendary Char Dukaan and the small Church near the language school that lies at the entry of the ITM lab, were huge in number, and they were so dense that it was nearly impossible to see beyond a few rows as to what lies behind those tree line.

This time, when I decided to go there again, I expected something similar.

11 years later, Mussoorie has undergone a massive change, a change that has been brought by us, an undesirable change.

The temperature this time did not go below 24 degree. The place that I stayed, was 100 meters away from Mussoorie lake, and despite being at a relatively less crowded place, at the foot of small hills, we had to switch on the AC whenever we were inside the room.

The three hills across our resting place, had lost majority of their green forest cover, turned brown with small cemented houses dotted across them. What should have been green, was now brown.

Locals told me that till 7-8 years ago, they would see Guldaar (leopard) in and around the campus. Now it it has just become a part of myth, an ancient folklore.

2019, after.

2008, before.

The situation at Kanatal and Dhanaulti was no different, the place, which were truly ‘hill station’ till very recently, have been robbed off their ability to keep things cool.

The accessible roads that have surrounded each and every part of Mussoorie and the neighboring areas have led to an all year traffic, with thousands of SUVs entering these areas every month, each one of them, like us, trying to spend time in a resort , a place which is in middle of forest and surrounded by hills.

While going towards Dhanaulti, I saw a Haryana registered SUV, with opened sun-roof, in which a young couple, beer can in their hand, shouting at the forests, whizzing past us. I was imedaitely transported to Gurgaon.

Hill stations in NCERT books have been defined as a place which are on hills, stay cool even during summers and since they are largely inaccessible, inhospitable,  they are less crowded.

That is not the situation any more.

Ruskin Bond, who can be called as Mussoories’s emblem, too has changed with the changing times.

11 years ago, my uncle and I spent a lot of time at his small but cozy place in Landour.

At that time he rarely used to get unannounced visitors. He could walk in the Landour market without being pestered for selfies and autographs. He could gossip with the old kirana store guys and take a stroll at the Mall road.

He has become more reclusive now, maybe like a Himalayan brown bear.

During the day, people roam around his house to catch a glimpse of the 85 year old writer who had weaved dreams of many kids as they read his books. He rarely comes down now. The only time he does is on Saturday when he goes to Cambridge book depot at the mall road between 3.30 and 4.40 to meet his readers and sign books for them.

The house adjacent to him has been turned into an ‘inn’ which reportedly has been brought by a noted Mumbai film maker. Its red color is not something that the eyes look for in a place where you expect green to prevail.

Landour was known for its serenity, the serenity has been replaced with tourists who are ‘loud’ in every sense.

Old timers say that Landour, at 7500 feets, is the “original Mussoorie”.In 1823, Captain Frederic Young, a British army officer, came across a goat path on the hills surrounding Dehradun while on a hunting expedition. 

This road, was the first road that connected Dehradun to the hills, that later come to known as Landour. In 1826, Young built’s Landour’s first home, and named it “Mullingar”, after his place of birth in Ireland. Young was the commandant of the first Gurkha battalion that was raised by the British after the Gurkha War or the Anglo-Nepalese war that was fought between 1814-1816.

The way things are going, soon a time will come when people will only be able to read about what Mussoorie offered and what it was, as I realized on this trip.

Mussorie tale

I have been to many a place where I have only felt love and nothing else.

Mussorie ranks high on that very list. Some times back I went to Mussorie, and it was one of those memorable journey which you remember till you say the final goodbye to the world.

Absolute bliss it was. I stayed at the DRDO guest house, courtesy my ever jovial and lovable uncle, KK, who is perhaps more romantic at heart than me. The DRDO guest house is one of the highest residential place in Mussorie where you can stay. And if you go there at the time of monsoon , you will loose your breath again and again by the sheer simple beauty of that place,which is also called Landour cantt area near the famous Lal Tibba.

From there you can watch the exhilarating view of the majestic Himalayas as it white snow covered peak stare at you in a gentle silence. You can also hear the sound of Himalayan Langurs giving out their mating call which is heard for kilometers. You can watch beautiful Kumaoni girls with red cheeks and a mystifying smile climbing the high hills as if they are walking on plains. Or you can just close your eyes and feel the nature outside as it embraces you.

The beauty of a natural place is enhanced if it has legends and myths associated with it. And in the case of Mussorie, it has many a tales. Some haunting, some not so haunting. Stories of Memsaabs and Sirs that took place during the ear of Raj. The British Raj.

One night after having my dinner at the guest house, I came out and started taking a stroll down towards Lal Tibba. As I was walking, I heard some kind of chanting that was coming from a far distance. It was kind of mesmerizing and I climbed a rock to get a better view of the spot from where the sound was coming. And not too far away, in the middle of deep forest , I saw some foreigners carrying Mashals( torch light), as they danced in a circle and sang songs.

Standing at an elevated position i could only see their body under the faint light of the torch that they were holding. It was something that is hard to explain in words. Dark foggy cold night and people singing ancient hymns. It was an out of world experience. God knows how desperately how I wanted to be a part of that group who was enjoying life in its fullest terms.

Mussorie is home to many a legends. Ruskin bond, the great writer is one of them. And thanks to my uncle, I got the opportunity to meet him once. He is the most well known Mussorian and has written many books on Mussorie. A true gentleman. Also if are fortunate enough you can watch the towering Tom Alter sipping coffee at the historical Char Dukan.

If you are in Mussoire you have to go to 4 dukan. They are 4 small shops, located in the heart of Landour, where you find the most mouth watering pakodas and a highly recommended tea. There you can sit, chit chat with the local and the foreigners, watch small pahadi children going to school or just simply watch the sun rising or going down as the time maybe.

Please keep in mind that when I am saying Mussorie, I am implying, the area near the Landour cantt and not the over crowded mall road of Mussorie.

The Landour area is a magic in itself. The climb from the guest house on the gravelled path, surrounded by lush green forest comprising many a tall trees, mostly Pine. The ever present fear that if you are lucky enough you might come across a leopard, who too like you , is enjoying the clouds, that have stopped for few hours to cuddle you in their cold moist arms.

The Landour cantt area also has a language school that is more than 200 years old. Here foreign student come and learn Hindi. This very language school is adjoining a church, which in itself is a marvellous example of a serene construction.

Mussorie gives all this experience for free but in return you will have to promise that you won’t disturb anything. Not pluck the flowers, not harm the butterflies or the trees, not litter the place. And most importantly keep a smile on your face whenever you come across a marvel of nature, be it a tree,animal, clouds, fog or a human being.

The term, love is in the air is literally felt by our soul in Mussorie in no small way. If you are in love or thinking of falling in love go to Mussorie. It has an unexplainable lucky charm that will work for you and this I say on a personal experience.

Mussorie enlightens love in heart...